Recipes From the Kitchen

Below are the first in a series of recipes from Chef Jeremy Goodwin to be showcased in the Georgia's Market resaurant. Be sure to sign up to receive updates on our recipe selection by joining our mailing list.

Port Wine, Raspberry Reduction with Caramelized Onions

I suggest using the sauces with the best cuts of meat or game, as they should compliment the flavor, not be used to mask inferior quality meats. There is also the consideration that the sauce ingredients can be quite expensive and suitable more for special occasions than everyday presentations.

Heat the olive oil in a skillet and add the onions. Cook over moderate heat until they start to brown and reduce heat, continuing cooking until they are caramelized, turning every couple of minutes. While the onions are cooking, add the port, orange zest, thyme and fruit to a small saucepan and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for 4-5 minutes, remove from the heat and allow the mixture to cool for five minutes. Strain through a fine mesh to remove the seeds, pressing the pulp with the back of a spoon to extract all the juice. Return the juice to the saucepan and bring to the boil, and simmer until it is reduced to half its volume or until it starts to thicken, about 15 minutes. Taste and add sugar salt and pepper in small quantities until the desired balance is reached. The sauce can be held at this time by allowing it to cool. Prior to serving, heat to a simmer and add the butter, whisking gently until smooth. Add the onions and serve over the steaks.

It is important to warm the plates slightly if serving a sauce with a butter finish.

Delectable Cream Puffs

The first stage is of course the shells and when they are cool they should be opened and any wet dough removed. I used to use a water finished shell recipe that dried out very well with an extra five minutes in the oven, but I know some people prefer the milk finish for the color and exterior crispness and therein lies the first major schism in a pastry chef’s life, soft shell or hard shell. It is an argument that I ignore by doing it both ways, liking the differences and providing a little variety.

The second stage is the chocolate and this can be done while the shells are baking as it takes a little time. First, get a double boiler going by heating until beginning to bubble and then switch the heat off, this saves a little energy but also prevents you from over heating. Get the chocolate broken up into little pieces, the smaller the faster it will melt, a Ziplocs and a hammer or mallet works for me. It is strange how much work gets done in the kitchen with a hammer, saw and blow torch. An important note, do not get any water anywhere near the chocolate, your temperature range before the chocolate breaks is much greater with no water involved. Add the chocolate to the double boiler and stir it every minute or two until melted

In a skillet, heat the butter and if you want to spend the time, clarify it by straining out the solids that appear as white or yellow foam. Heat the butter until smoking and into this throw a hot pepper of your choice that has been sliced length-ways to expose the seeds and sauté for five minutes. This part is highly variable and I can only say, “Get to know your peppers.” as my true thoughts will take more space than allowed here. Allow the mixture to cool a little before adding to the chocolate and stir it in until the mixture is smooth, taste to make sure it is not too spicy.

The cream is really easy, just start with a non-UHT cream and put it in the blender with the sugar, vanilla and pepper and process until it forms stiff peaks unless you want to have people changing their clothes and then just whip to soft peaks. It is better to do this without refrigerating as you get the true consistency.

It is important to warm the plates slightly if serving a sauce with a butter finish.

Béchamel Variation (for squid)

Sauté capers, onion and garlic in butter for about 3-4 minutes. Scald milk in separate pan. Add flour all at once and stir in to form a roué. Cook over medium heat for 5 minutes, until roué begins to turn golden colored. Grate a little nutmeg over this mixture. Add scalded milk in small amounts to roué. Stir constantly until desired consistency is achieved. Add ¼ cup sweet white vermouth if too thick.

Garnish with garlic chives.